Where is wifi antenna on ipad 2

They secure the dock connector to the rear panel of your iPad 2 3G. Now remove the 4 cruciform screws holding the WiFi antenna : Two 2mm cruciform screws circled in yellow on the picture,. Our goal is to make repairing accessible to all. Our team introduces you Captain Repair, an on-site repair service. The good point about it is that you can have the repair done at home, at work or at a coffee shop! All rights reserved to SOSav. Why not you?

Symptoms : Can't connect to WiFi network or low speed performances. On the shop : Components - iPad 2. Do you have the spare parts to do the repair? Some parts are missing! Recommended repair kit. Required spare parts. WiFi Antenna - iPad 2. See product Add to cart. Required tools.

Pump-It Premium suction cup. Guide format : Pdf Integrate. See in HD. Step 2 To open your iPad 2 3G, you have to heat up the edges of the touch screen explained in the following step. Your SIM card being made out of plastic, will have to be removed in order not to damage it. To do so, use the SIM card eject tool and put it in the hole and press to remove the tray. Step 3 The iPad 2 3G requires to be very meticulous when opening it.

Step 4 Once the bottom right corner is heated enough, insert a metal spudger between the screen and rear panel. With this tool, gently pry up the front panel and put a pick between the screen and rear panel. The WiFi antenna of your iPad is located between the button and the bottom right corner of the screen.

Step 5 Now heat up the right side of the screen of your iPad 2 3G. Don't forget to heat it correctly, the more it's hot, the more it'll be easier to remove it. Step 6 Continue to slide the metal spudger along the iPad. If you feel like you have to use a bit of force, heat up the edge of your iPad. Step 7 Repeat the same step on the top part of your iPad 2 3G. Don't hesitate to heat up the screen if you feel like a bit of force is needed.

Step 8 Continue to gently remove the touch screen on the left side of the iPad 2 3G. Step 9 Starting on the left of the dock connector, gently start removing the bottom left side of your iPad 2 3G. It is repairable however does require opening the device - book a Genie Counter appointment - Yes even right now get that warranty claim registered.

They cannot be that delicate as I have never had one fail in all of the 6 iPads span across 10 years my household owns soon to be 7. Maybe there is a loose Wifi antenna connection and not necessarily a break in the antenna since your WiFi issues seem sporadic and intermittent. Like I said, I'm in the middle of a 'dropping Wi Fi storm' right now, it will be alright for about four months, then it will start happening again for another two week period.

As of the beginning of , many, MANY third party app developers are all more quickly and completely dropping older app support for all old 7, 8 and 9-year iPads that are running year old and earlier iOS versions iOS 10 and earlier. Third party app developers are removing all of their older, legacy versions of their apps from Apple's App Store servers, now.

Third party app developers no longer want to support these 8 and 9-year old or older iOS devices, any longer! So finding older versions apps for older iPads, while still possible, currently, will be a tough challenge, now, in Older versions of apps for these older iPads will be completely gone, at some point, in the very foreseeable future.

So, this is really now the time to seriously consider a new or discounted, refurbished iPad from Apple or other Apple authorised resellers. The baseline , You might want to consider stop futzing with a nearly 8-year old, problematic device and purchase something that just works and is frustration free and is much newer and runs a much newer version of iOS and can get the most recent version of third party apps.

Well, since this iPad is old, anyways, and well out of warranty, if you think you can take this iPad apart and fix it, by all means take this iPad apart, yourself and look into the issue.

Maybe cheaper than a new iPad, if you and your wife have been getting by with these very old iPads. Update to the latest version of iTunes - Apple Support. Apr 10, PM. More Less. Communities Get Support. Sign in Sign in Sign in corporate. Browse Search. Ask a question. I've never seen this question asked - in here or on the general web: HOW Does a devices' internal Wi Fi antenna get 'broken' in the first place??

I'm getting the popcorn ready for this one.. The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad.

Follow the next steps carefully. Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there. Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so. This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly. Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna approximately 3" 75 mm from the right edge, or right next to the home button re-insert the opening pick to its full depth. Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged. If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working. Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad. If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it. If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9. Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work. Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" 50 mm from the bottom of the iPad. Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers. Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again.

If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive. Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad. Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down. During reassembly use a microfiber cloth and compressed air to clean any dust or fingerprints off the LCD before reinstalling the glass.

The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way. Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over. Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board. Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case. Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.

In order to remove the front panel assembly, the ribbon cable needs to slide out between the case and the LCD. You'll need to move the LCD to make some room. Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book. While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD. In order to work on the iPad's innards, we need to flip the LCD back out of the case. Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.

If present, use a plastic opening tool to help remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable.